Chrissy Tracey, a CT-based vegan chef, was the first vegan chef to become a cast member in the Bon Appétit Test Kitchen.

Macarena Ludena of Cora Cora in West Hartford, a nominee for a James Beard Foundation award in the Best Chef: Northeast category.

Emily Mingrone is chef-owner of Tavern on State in New Haven.

New Haven chef and restaurateur Emily Mingrone made history last year when she was named Connecticut Restaurant Association's first female Chef of the Year. As she accepted the award, she felt like she'd arrived.

"People I had worked under were in that room, too," she said. "I was just like, 'Hell yeah.' It's really awesome."

The chef-owner of Tavern on State in New Haven (and the upcoming Fair Haven Oyster Co.) isn't the only Connecticut female chef making waves.

In February, Macarena Ludena, the head chef at Cora Cora in West Hartford, was nominated for a James Beard award in the Best Chef: Northeast category. Renee Touponce, the executive chef at Mystic's Oyster Club, was recently featured in a New York Post writeup, which mentioned her prowess with charcuterie made from fish and seafood. Chrissy Tracey, a plant-based chef in New Fairfield, was the first vegan chef to become a cast member in the Bon Appétit Test Kitchen.

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Pan-seared scallops at Tavern on State, New Haven

Fig and Endive Salad;chantrelle conserva, truffle aioli, crushed hazelnut at Allium Eatery in Westport, CT on November 21, 2021.

Tallarin saltado from Cora Cora in West Hartford, a nominee for a James Beard Foundation award in the Outstanding Restaurant category.

Jes Bengston, executive chef of Terrain in Westport

Chrissy Tracey, a CT-based vegan chef, was the first vegan chef to become a cast member in the Bon Appétit Test Kitchen.

Macarena Ludena of Cora Cora in West Hartford, a nominee for a James Beard Foundation award in the Best Chef: Northeast category.

Emily Mingrone is chef-owner of Tavern on State in New Haven.

Beyond the national recognition, women in Connecticut's culinary industry are crafting world-class food, bringing creativity and innovation to menus and leading kitchens with thoughtful and equitable management approaches. We caught up with some of the state's top chefs to learn more about their careers, their challenges and their triumphs.

Renee Touponce: I grew up in a mixed home of Italian and Puerto Rican [family], so I was always surrounded by so much food and the love behind that. I was always constantly in the kitchen. [In high school] a friend asked if I’d ever thought about going to culinary school. Something just clicked…it made sense for me in the moment, and I went for it.

Renee Touponce, executive chef of Oyster Club in Mystic

Chrissy Tracey: I was about eight years old when I knew I was obsessed with food. My mom would say, "You're a distraction in the kitchen!" So I'd spend my afternoon making fake meals outside in my backyard, with foraged elements. I always say that's what started my love for foraging, which is super intrinsic to the food that I create.

My mom would always say to me, "Make a seat at the table for yourself." - Chrissy Tracey

Emily Mingrone: My dad is a chef, and I grew up eating really good food. That was one of the catalysts for me to want to create really good food, because I was always kind of underwhelmed by my experiences dining out.

Kristin Eddy, executive pastry chef at Millwright’s, Simsbury: With baking, it's the consistency of it...using the same four or five ingredients and creating this really intricate baked good. I really love that you could start with just something so simple, flour, eggs, sugar, butter, and go wherever with it.  

Kristin Eddy, executive pastry chef at Millwright's in Simsbury

Mingrone: I prefer to lead with guidance and conversation, as opposed to yelling and screaming, and a lot of people [in her past jobs] had a hard time with that technique, from a boss perspective. They were just like, “You’ve got to be harder on them.” And I’m like, “I really don’t think I do.”

Michelle Greenfield, chef-owner of Allium Eatery, Westport: I went to culinary school, and when you get your uniform, it’s a men’s uniform. It was a high-waisted, tapered leg, polyester pants…I had to go buy another pair that looked like it, but I would get yelled at because I wasn’t in uniform. I’m like, ‘Your pants don’t fit me.’ 

Michelle Greenfield chef/owner of Allium Eatery of Westport, CT on November 21, 2021.

April Gibson, executive chef at The North House, Avon: This just happened [last week.] My name is on the menu, but a guest kept saying "he" [to refer to the chef.] If you actually read the menu, you'd see "April." 

"I went to culinary school, and when you get your uniform, it’s a men’s uniform." - Michelle Greenfield

Jes Bengston, executive chef at Terrain in Westport: I think a lot in my earlier years, I felt like I was passed up on a few occasions for roles that I was really qualified for, or if I wasn't qualified for, I would have been the next person in line for…I felt like I was passed up on that pretty often. When I was 25, I was cooking in kitchens with men in their 30s, 40s, 50s. I think it would have been strange for everyone had I been a superior to anyone older than [me], and a male.

Jes Bengston, executive chef of Terrain in Westport

Touponce: I’ve been in environments where it isn’t healthy, and dudes [were] very creepy and super forward. Unfortunately, that’s always been the [kitchen] energy…booze, knives and sex. You guide your way through it, and choose to ignore it or put it to the side. You do have to work harder, and always be on top of your game. 

Ashley Flagg, executive chef at Millwright’s, Simsbury: It’s definitely historically a boys’ club…you have to work at a higher level. You don’t get to really screw up in the same way the guys do. I don’t think we get that same leeway. But I think in general…we have to hold ourselves to a higher expectation to get the same recognition that the guys would get with little to no expectation.

April Gibson, the executive chef of The North House in Avon

Eddy: We have the open window [from the kitchen] into the dining room. When a table gets dessert, and the first thing I see is them pull out their phone and want to take a photo, that's instant validation for me. Nobody needs to even say anything, but just the fact that they're thinking to themselves, "Wow, that's beautiful, I want to remember this."

"It’s definitely historically a boys’ club…you have to work at a higher level. You don’t get to really screw up in the same way the guys do." - Ashley Flagg

Mingrone: I find it really cool lately, when I step out into the dining room, to see the number of queer people that dine with us. It seems disproportionate, like I don't see that many people that look like me at other restaurants. So it feels kind of cool to be that sort of respite as well. It seems to be that because I am who I am and I'm in the public eye, it encourages a lot more people like me to support us, and then sort of invigorate that community as well.

Chrissy Tracey, a CT-based vegan chef, was the first vegan chef to become a cast member in the Bon Appétit Test Kitchen.

Bengston: I'm just so happy to hear people talking about women in the kitchen. I think it's really important to not just talk about the things that suck for us, or the challenges, but to be celebrated just for being great chefs. 

Ludena: Since the [James Beard] nomination, we've started getting busier and busier. I think that's a blessing for us, my team, my family. We're seeing a lot of new people, new faces. 

"If something's not right, or you're being mistreated, you have to say something. Don't just try and be a tough guy and take it." - April Gibson

Greenfield: Even as stressful as [first-time restaurant ownership] is, this is probably the most relaxed I've ever been in my career. When it's yours, and you choose your battles, and you love it, it makes it a lot easier to get up and do it every day.

Ludena: I'd tell them, "Don't be scared." Your passion, your motivation...we put more passion in everything. We create life. We can do anything.

Flagg: Don't focus on what somebody else's reality is, just because they are getting promotions that you feel like you maybe deserved. Don't worry about that. Do what you can to improve yourself, make yourself undeniable. 

Ashley Flagg, executive chef of Millwright's in Simsbury

Gibson: Just don't take everything [personally.] I made a mistake doing that many, many times, and it affected my growth and professionalism. And defending yourself and standing up for yourself. If something's not right, or you're being mistreated, you have to say something. Don't just try and be a tough guy and take it, because that's when people think that they can take advantage of you and walk all over you.

Touponce:  I can only hope to lead, to pave the way and have these conversations with the younger women in my kitchen and mentor and guide them and teach them. You can do it. It's not impossible. You got this.

Tracey: My mom would always say to me, "Make a seat at the table for yourself." You have to know that you're going to deal with tough situations...but at the end of the day, don't change who you are, or don't make yourself small just because somebody else is trying to make you small.

Leeanne is the food and consumer reporter for Hearst Connecticut, handling coverage of restaurant openings and closings, trends, events and general news about CT food and beverage businesses.

She's been working in Connecticut news for more than 15 years, most recently as the food and dining reporter for the Hartford Courant. A native of Worcester, Mass., she holds a master's degree in journalism from Quinnipiac University.