Everyone knows that Table 72 belongs to the president. The circular booth in the middle of the mezzanine of Trump Hotel is not to be missed. It doesn't matter how many members of Congress are clamoring to make reservations at the steakhouse, or whether there are tourists trying to steal money from the manager (which they did). Except for the president and his children, and occasionally approved members of the inner circle like Rudy Giuliani or Mike Pence, no one sits at Trump's table.

In fact, if the leader of the free world happens to happen on a whim, the restaurant hopes to avoid the horror of keeping him out. But the seat also creates a sense of mystery. Of course, it may now be a relic of a poorly performing venue. But in these four epic years, it was a carefully planned prop in the Trump show.

When the stars appear, you have to stick to the script. A "standard operating procedure" document recently obtained by Washingtonians outlines step by step what Trump should do and say when dining at the hotel restaurant BLT Prime.

As soon as Trump sits down, the waiter must "discreetly display" a bottle of Mini Purell hand sanitizer. (This was applied before Covid, please pay attention.) Next, prompt the dialogue: "Hello, Mr. President (time of day). Do you want to add ice to your Diet Coke or not?" The waiter was instructed to recite. A polished tray containing a frozen bottle and a highball glass is ready for these two reactions. In no less than seven steps, the instructions for pouring soda water are explained in detail, and four photo exhibits are attached. The drink must be opened in front of the commander-in-chief who has a phobia of bacteria, "never beforehand." The waiter needs to hold a long-necked bottle opener in one hand, and a Diet Coke in the other hand, and also hold the lower third. After pouring, the drink must be placed on the right hand side of the president. "Repeat until POTUS leaves."

Trump always has the same things: shrimp cocktails, prepared steaks and French fries (sometimes apple pie or chocolate cake for dessert). The popcorn-the president's double-must be served within two minutes, and the crustaceans will be served "immediately." The manual instructed the waiter to open the small glass bottle of Heinz ketchup in front of Trump, taking care to make sure he could hear the "pop" of the seal.

Decoration is taboo. Former executive chef Bill Williamson said that Melania Trump once sent back a Dover sole because it was decorated with parsley and chives, and he worked at this restaurant until the pandemic began. Trump himself has never returned a plate, but if he is disappointed, you can bet that the complaint will pass on. Just like the president questioned why his dining partner wants to eat a bigger steak. The restaurant has specially made super prawns for him, no one else. Next time, they'd better add up the beef.

"It's the same steak. Both are well done. Maybe it's half an ounce bigger or something, I don't know," said Williamson, who previously ran the kitchens of DC staples Birch & Barley and Riggsby. The chef always prepares bone-in rib eye or filet steak for Trump. After Steakgate, he switched to a 40-ounce battle axe. Trump will never complain that he does not have the best, largest, and most beautiful steak.

And one more thing. Don't forget the snacks. Every Trump visit needs to provide a plate of junk food: Lay's potato chips (especially sour cream and onions), Milky Way, Snickers, Nature Valley Granola Bars, Tic Tacs, Gummy Bears, Potato Chips Ahoy , Oreo, Nut Butter, Tootsie Rolls, Chocolate Raisins and Popular Secrets.

The biggest pain in my butt is Giuliani.

The entire SOP reads like a pop star rider, which is a perfect place to be the center stage of Trump's drama and its entire character lineup. However, Washington Hotel is now considering its next move. In 2019, the Trump Organization began trying to sell it for $500 million-a figure reportedly rejected by industry professionals even before Covid destroyed the hotel industry. Between the pandemic, Trump's failure, and the aftermath of the U.S. Capitol attack, the hotel's reputation has plummeted since then. Financial disclosures announced at the end of Trump's presidency showed that the property's revenue in 2020 has decreased by 63%.

If the hotel is eventually sold, the new owner is likely to start from scratch. And for those who pour out the ketchup and put in the undecorated plates, it means their job is done. well done.

But hey, it went on a crazy journey!

Now, the veterans of this place are beginning to understand the real situation behind the "American Living Room", where right-wing agents are treated as celebrities, and political power determines the seating schedule. If you are not making America great again, then, dear, you will soon learn to pretend. Working for the Trump Hotel means performing every night-including gummy bears and popcorn.

First, always rehearse the VIPs of the night. The lineup is as long and constantly changing as the president’s own list of loyalists.

"The senators and cabinet members and all their staff and the president's staff, important members of the Republican Party, large church pastors, MyPillow guys. He is definitely a VIP," said former executive chef Shawn Matijevich. "If they live in a hotel, the hotel will print a book for us every day, with their photo, their name and their job title."

You have to know who to attract-considering the president's ally, the Ferris wheel, this is not always easy. Once, before breaking with Trump, lawyer Michael Cohen tried to grab a table at BLT Prime without reservation. The host didn't know who he was, and turned him away, leading the general manager of the hotel to scold the host's boss. Another time, in the early days, the kitchen always accepted Hope Hicks' orders. She took out a card that didn't know who I was, and let the general manager know that she was actually Hope Hicks—you know, from the White House. The manager who no longer works there remembers apologizing many times and then issuing a "dessert storm", including crepe souffles and cheesecake lollipop trees.

Another time, a bus driver’s apron was caught on the door of a private restaurant. He accidentally threw a small mold filled with steak sauce on Arthur Schwartz, who was a Republican in New York. Agent, closely related to Xiao Tang. Only the president's son was splashed.

"[Schwarz] came over and scolded me for five or ten minutes and talked about how he wore a $10,000 suit," the general manager said. "The hotel did pay for all cleaning costs." (Schwarz declined to comment.)

Perhaps the most notorious VIP is Rudy Giuliani, who has an ordinary table in the dining area downstairs of the restaurant. "This is almost his office. He does more paperwork there than eats," said Chef Williamson. "Some days, he will be there all day." Once, someone formalized it and made a black and gold plaque that read RUDOLPH W. GIULIANI PRIVATE OFFICE. The restaurant will put it behind the owner's stand and put it on his table before he arrives.

"The biggest pain in my ass is Giuliani," said the former manager, who dealt with the annoyed Hicks and the sauce-covered Schwartz (he requested anonymity to avoid counterattacks from future employers). "He is often in the restaurant. I have complaints about this. That guy will come in, looking forward to immediately notify a table of 10 people when we are not fully operational, like at 2pm. We have no staff. But he It’s the president’s lawyer, what should I do?"

In contrast, Trump's children are quite low-key and polite. (The most obscene detail about Ivanka provided by any former employee was once she appeared in yoga pants and indulged in a single margarita.) "They just came in, did their thing, and then left, "Former Assistant General Manager Alyssa O said,'Clock. "Ivanka will sit with her in other parts of the restaurant. She really doesn't want to be seen there, of course."

Tiffany also occasionally appeared at the brunch of Mimosa Fuel or studied and rested with friends at Georgetown Law School. However, she is often absent. "She made a lot of reservations, but didn't show up for dinner in front of them," a former manager said. "It's a pain."

Catering to right-wing bigwigs is not to provide them with free gifts (although former White House Chief of Staff Mark Meadows and his wife may receive free sparkling wine), but more of a highly customized service to satisfy their self-esteem . The staff keeps a lot of records on everyone. For Katherine Reynolds, a super philanthropist who served as a member of the Trump Economic Recovery Committee during the pandemic, diary-like records recorded every preference she had, including how many olives she liked in martinis. "I have worked in some high-end restaurants, but I have never worked in a place where the VIP list is so crazy," O'Clock said. "A few people recorded all their orders in our OpenTable notes."

Then came the lobbyist David Bocconi, a major Republican donor and ring road agent since he took office at the Reagan White House. He likes to drink morning coffee in the restaurant, but he will show up before the restaurant opens. O'Clock said: "They didn't let him come later, but decided that we only drink coffee 15 minutes early because David Bockorny will come." "Those who work in the morning know that you need to be there on time, maybe earlier— This guy is coming in."

Regular guests such as Florida Rep. Matt Gaetz and MyPillow CEO Mike Lindell always take selfies with fans near the lobby. In the dining room, some senior White House officials, including Kelly Ann Conway and Sarah Huckabee Sanders, prefer the private box at the back. But in general, the location is a table on the railing of the mezzanine balcony overlooking the lobby and the high ceiling. You might see Meadows there, or Matt Schlapp, chairman of the Conservative Party of America, or Kelly Loeffler, then Georgia Senator. Although if you are not politically attractive, appearance can also get you there. "Someone told me that it was only once that beautiful people couldn't stand it," said a former employee. "And those with Birkin bags."

Secretary of the Treasury Steve Mnuchin and his wife Louise Linton stayed at this hotel briefly. They are one of the few people allowed to occupy Trump’s table, sometimes even Dragging a purse-sized dog from Linton, this is Paris Hilton style. Even if it is not on the menu, their favorite Pinot Noir is still in stock. But even they are not immune from misfortune. During the 2017 inauguration, the staff was overwhelmed while taking care of the crowd, and then when she had no resources to show up, she scrambled to find a table for Marla Maples-in fact, the restaurant was overwhelmed so much that the restaurant lost Mnuchin Coat.

“The hotel was too crowded and the hotel was not ready to take all the coats, so we tried to help,” the former general manager said. Thankfully, Mnuchin is not a bastard. "I'm pretty sure we found it in a few days."

Hotel management portrays themselves as true Trump followers, but most people who eat and clean up after right-wing customers are contradictory at best. They clocked in because the salary in this place was high. really good. Michel Rivera, a former bartender in the lobby bar, said that he earns more than $100,000 a year from tips (at least $30,000 more than what he earns at Hay-Adams). He said that this is the highest-paying job in his 25-year career, and that it has generous health benefits-and many other former employees agree with this comment.

"People will really come up to me and give me a $100 bill and say,'If you work here, you must be the best bartender in the world!'" Rivera said. "A group of three or four people will come over for a drink-I can easily sell them for more than $1,000. You don't see this in many bars." A restaurant manager said that she had never worked anywhere else. The guests there often tried to put oil on her palms "like the old mafia era" in order to get close to power. "If there are politicians, I will let people try to pull me close to someone's table, or try to sit at Trump's table, which is a big no-no," she said. "Obviously, I refused. If we move someone to Trump's desk, I will be fired."

Anyone who is not a Trump fan will quickly learn that building a facade is part of the job. "I'm lying. I said something to make a difference and do what I need to do to avoid problems," Rivera said. "A lot of times, I end up saying,'Yes, I support the president. He is an amazing man. A former manager recalled that when she started working, another employee took her to the hotel and praised Trang. Pu is "so good to the people" and "so kind soul." "I looked at them, like,'You know what? You are absolutely right,'" she said. "And I'm dying in it. "

Behind the scenes, when she and other payroll Democrats learn that the president is coming in, they groan: "It's like,'Oh, great. I don't want to deal with this. Can I get off work earlier today?'"

I always try to dress like a Fox News anchor.

Maintaining appearance also means maintaining appearance. Just like in other luxury hotels, the former president’s hotel has strict regulations on the dress and appearance of its employees. The beards of men must not exceed a quarter of an inch and the nails of women must not exceed three-eighths of an inch. According to the "Appearance and Grooming Policy" obtained by Washingtonians, technically speaking, pants are allowed, but some female staff members stated that there is an unwritten rule of dress: only skirts or skirts are allowed. Otherwise, "you will get an expression of disapproval," O'Clock said. "I just remember knowing every time I wear pants: Oh, it will be a day. Make sure I wear a nice suit jacket and high heels to keep my balance." As a former female manager said: "I always try to dress well. Like a Fox News anchor."

Expectations are high, but this is the president’s hotel, and everyone knows that the press team is watching. When he left Norfolk to open his own restaurant from October 2017 to 8 months later, when Matyevich was a chef, he said that low tolerance for errors led to many dismissals, which usually involved people being dramatically dismissed. Escorted out of the building: "I saw someone weed out because of bad language. We have to keep our best behavior every second outside, because someone is waiting to notice that we made a mistake, and this will become news ."

However, even though they were worried about offending their boss or customers, some employees got it from different directions when they got home. "I think 80% to 90% of my kitchen staff may be Hispanic," Matyevich said. "Many of the people who work there, their friends don't talk to them anymore. Some Hispanic workers, their families will not talk to them while working there, even their hometowns in other countries."

A micro-green supplier that Matijevich had worked with before abandoned him, saying that it could not conscientiously deliver goods to the hotel. Williamson joined BLT in early 2018 and worked there for two years. He discovered that a food supplier that he had a good relationship with suddenly sent him rotten produce and substandard meat and fish. "I have to check a lot of this product over and over again," said Williamson, who now runs a boutique butcher shop in Mount Pleasant. "I promise that the people who picked this product in that warehouse saw its whereabouts, like,'Oh, f-it, give them this thing.'"

At some point, even for a manager who supported Trump and loved the job, this contempt became too much. “We work 10 hours, 12 hours a day to make people happy with delicious food, but we have no [catering] reports,” he said. When he is resting on the hotel terrace, the jogger will reach out to him. He said that once, when he went to work on the subway in a uniform, other passengers yelled at him: "You are ashamed! How can you work for such a person? You are a racist!" He never went to get off work in a uniform again . In the end, he just didn't want to face harassment anymore. he left.

When Covid-19 closed everything last spring, the restaurant laid off all employees. However, once the indoor dining restrictions were lifted, the lobby and steakhouse became active again-employees now have additional responsibilities to try to enforce safety agreements.

A former employee said: "I suspect that when we ask them to wear masks, many restaurants in the city have to tolerate adult men who roll their eyes." "The boldness and lack of human touch of the comments shocked me. It shocked me. Want to cry in the walk-in apartment. People are dying and you are joking that you must wear a mask."

She said that Rand Paul used scotch tape to fix his mask on his glasses and let it slap on his mouth and nose. (Paul, who once condemned wearing a mask, was the first senator to sign with Covid last year.) His communications director Kelsey Cooper said: "That story is not true."

The employee said that the hotel management had to remind Trump’s coronavirus consultant Dr. Scott Atlas many times that he promoted the spread of the virus among young and healthy young people to achieve herd immunity. Wear a mask while walking around the hall instead of sitting at a table. "That never happened," Atlas told the Washingtonian in an email. "I really always wear a mask there, 100% of the time, unless I sit at the table to eat or drink. This is another shameless lie, just to accuse me. Are the media tired of lying? You must be thinking about it. It might be more interesting to listen to the story and say that they have something delicious-please add this."

Between the pandemic restrictions and the political turmoil that led to November 3rd, the hotel's performances were no longer sold out. Sometimes, security measures are tightened, and no one can enter without some kind of reservation. Many of the same characters continue to appear, but without chatting in the lobby, the atmosphere is different. Election week was bleak. "As you can see, the guests are very sad," the employee said. "Working behind closed doors, we are all celebrating Biden's victory. But, oh my goodness, we may all have to find other jobs."

Some people talked about persevering at the inauguration ceremony, but with the surge in Covid cases, indoor dining was once again banned and many employees were back unemployed. Some people worry that writing a T on their resume will cause them to be blacklisted. (The bartender Rivera now only lists his former employer as the "OPO" of the old post office.) That was before the attack on the Capitol, the resignation of the cabinet, the second impeachment, and the defeated president flying into exile in a helicopter. Trump may have left Washington, but he is still faintly visible over the hotel. Table 72 is a reminder-empty.

This article was published in Washingtonian Magazine in March 2021.

Jessica Sidman introduced the people and trends behind the DC food and beverage industry. Before joining the Washingtonian in July 2016, she was a food editor for the Washington City News and a columnist for Young and Hungry. She is a native of Colorado and graduated from the University of Pennsylvania.