Although the degree varies, we are all reeling from sticker shock these days? A few days ago, I was surprised to see that the cost of chicken is increasing, again, but pork prices are coming down a bit. Beef prices seem stable — which is to say, high — and the price of lamb is heading upward, too.
From one week to the next, the milk I buy went from $2.89 a half gallon to $3.99. My morning cafe au lait is starting to feel like a luxury.
One way to view this is as an opportunity, especially if you have the luxury of time, which I do. The most time-consuming duties of motherhood are behind me now, so I do have time to explore and experiment in the kitchen, something I have always done, though never for my current reason: cooking more economically.
My first experiment is with green seasoning, which has a variety of names and is ubiquitous throughout the Caribbean. My first batch is quite traditional, but once it is gone, I will begin experimenting with French sorrel and spearmint, both of which are abundant in my garden, along with radish greens and poblanos, and by switching up the citrus.
There are countless versions of what is known as green seasoning throughout the Caribbean and in certain parts of Africa. There are many commercial versions, too. Most use an herb called culantro, similar to cilantro but stronger; I have not found it locally. Some have no citrus, others have no herbs other than thyme. All have a great deal of heat and a refreshing brightness that I can only describe as “green.” Green seasoning takes its place in my cooking arsenal right alongside Moroccan chermoula, Argentinian chimichurr and Italian salsa verde. It has myriad uses, so be as traditional and as inventive as you want to be.
1 bunch Italian parsley (about 4 ounces)
1 white onion, trimmed, peeled, and cut into small dice
1 to 3 fresh hot chiles, such as serrano, Scotch bonnet or habañero, to taste, stemmed and minced
2 ounces fresh ginger, peeled and grated
1 large garlic bulb, cloves separated, peeled, crushed and minced
Juice of 2 limes or 2 lemons, plus more to taste
To make the seasoning by hand: rinse, dry, trim and crush all ingredients, as directed in the ingredients list.
Using a very sharp chef’s knife, cut the scallions into very thin rounds, no more than ⅛ of an inch and preferably thinner. Put them into a mixing bowl. Cut the celery into very small dice and add it to the bowl.
Chop the cilantro and parsley, using the stems provided they are not too thick. Add to the bowl, along with the thyme leaves, onion, chiles, ginger, garlic and allspice. Toss together well.
Add the lime or lemon juice and toss again. Season generously with salt, stir, cover and let sit 5 minutes. Taste and correct for salt, heat and acid.
To make the seasoning in a food processor: Coarsely chop the scallions, celery, cilantro and parsley and set them aside, along with the thyme leaves and the onion. Put the chiles, ginger and garlic into the work bowl fitted with the metal blade and pulse several times, until the ingredients are as small as they are going to get.
Use a rubber spatula to scrape the sides of the work bowl and to loosen the ingredients from the bottom of the bowl. Add scallions, celery, cilantro, parsley, thyme and onion, pulse several times, add the allspice and lemon or lime juice and pulse again.
Tip the mixture into a bowl, season to taste with salt and correct for heat and acid.
Store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 7 days. Freeze for up to 3 months.
As a marinade: for fish, 2 to 3 hours before grilling or frying; for pork, up to 2 days before roasting; for chicken, up to a day before grilling or roasting; for eggplant, 1 or 2 hours before frying or grilling.
As a condiment: stir into soups right before serving; top stews and braises with a generous dollop just before serving; spoon over omelets and scrambled eggs; spoon over cottage cheese or plain whole milk yogurt; toss with spaghettini or a similar noodle; spoon over steamed rice, farro or quinoa; spoon over creamy polenta and congee; spoon over red beans and rice and similar dishes; serve alongside all types of roasted vegetables, fish, poultry or meat.
Here is an example of “green seasoning” being incorporated into a dish without even a mention. Anyone who loves heat but hates cilantro will enjoy this version.
5 bunches scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced
1 large garlic bulb, cloves peeled, crushed, and minced
3 fresh hot chiles, stemmed and minced (see Note below)
2 large sprigs fresh thyme or 2 tablespoons dried thyme
2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
6 to 8 pounds pork shoulder, boned and butterflied
Begin at least 1 day before you want to serve the pork.
Put the scallions, garlic, chiles, thyme, ginger, allspice, black pepper and kosher salt in a large bowl and mix together. Add enough water to form a loose paste.
Set aside about ¾ cup of the mixture; store it in the refrigerator until ready to serve.
Put the pork into the remaining mixture and turn it so that the marinade coats it. Cover and refrigerate for at least 12 hours and as long as 48 hours. Turn the meat occasionally in the marinade.
About four hours before serving the pork, prepare a fire in an outdoor grill and soak 2 to 3 cups of hardwood chips in water.
When the coals are completely covered with gray ash and past their peak of heat (in about 45 minutes), scatter half the soaked wood over them.
Set the meat on the grill rack, off center, so that it is not directly over the coals, and cover, leaving the vent holes open slightly.
Cook the pork slowly for one hour. Remove the lid and check the fire, adding a few coals and the remaining wood as needed. Continue to cook for 1 ½ hours more, basting the meat and turning it every 30 minutes.
After 2 ½ hours, the meat should be very tender and slightly charred. If it is not, cook 30 minutes more.
Transfer the meat to a cutting board, cover loosely with aluminum foil and let rest 15 to 20 minutes. Use a cleaver to chop the meat into bite sized pieces.
Pile the meat onto a large platter, season with salt and drizzle with the reserved sauce. Enjoy right away.
Note: Traditionally, jerk sauce is very hot. The recipe from which this one is adapted calls for fresh Scotch bonnet chiles, which are searingly hot. To achieve a similar result you may also use fresh habanero chiles. If you want to enjoy this with wine, I suggest using serranos or jalapenos, as the hotter chiles will turn most wines bitter. To enjoy with the full heat, have cider or beer alongside.
Markets are offering thinly sliced pork shoulder and similar cuts these days at fairly reasonable prices. This is an easy and delicious way to prepare these cuts. I like to add a few radishes alongside, as they make a delightful contrast in both taste and texture.
8 to 10 ounces thinly sliced boneless pork, such as pork shoulder
Black pepper in a mill
1 tablespoons brown butter (see note below)
½ cup chicken broth or stock
1 tablespoon capers, drained (if brined) or rinsed and drained (if salted)
2 teaspoons butter, chilled and cut into pieces
Rinse the spinach but do not shake off the water that clings to the leaves. Put the spinach into a wok or similar cooking vessel, and set aside.
Set a large sheet of parchment paper on your work surface, set a slice of pork on top and fold the paper over it. Use a meat tenderizer or French rolling pin to lightly pound the pork, flattening it as thin as possible without breaking it up. Continue until all the pork is pounded.
Season the pork all over with salt and pepper and dredge in the flour.
Melt the browned butter in a large heavy skillet set over high heat, add the pork, saute 2 minutes, and turn. Saute until the pork is cooked through, about 1 minute more. Transfer to a warm platter and cover to keep warm.
Pour any juices that have collected in the platter back into the pan, add the garlic and simmer 2 minutes. Add the broth or stock, lemon juice, and capers, stir with a whisk and simmer until reduced by half, about 3 minutes.
Reduce the heat to low and whisk in the chilled butter piece by piece, very quickly, until the sauce is slightly thickened. Remove from the heat.
Working very quickly, set the pot with the spinach over high heat and cook until it just wilts, about 90 seconds; turn it as it cooks.
Divide the spinach between two plates, drape the pork over the spinach, spoon sauce over the meat, garnish with a lemon wedge, and enjoy right away.
Note: Brown butter is simply clarified butter (melted, with milk solids and other impurities removed) that has been allowed to heat slowly until it takes on a golden glow and has an aroma of hazelnuts.
Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date, including “Vinaigrettes & Other Dressings.” Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.
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