Although it only opened in January this year, Ada's On The River in Old Alexandria has become the subject of praise in national publications and is known as one of the best restaurants in the Washington, DC metropolitan area.

reason? Ada's secret weapon: Chef Randall Matthews.

The executive chef and locals from District Heights, Maryland, helm the restaurant’s menu, which includes premium wood-fired steaks, fresh seafood, and vegetarian food—all with sweeping views of the Potomac River. In a word, the food is delicious. But in a city often concealed by its neighboring DC sisters, his efforts are no small feat, plus only 14.7% of chefs and chefs consider black, this is a category divided by gender, race, and ethnicity. The lowest percentage, according to a 2020 study by the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. But Matthews is doing it, and doing it well.

In the past few years, Northern Virginia-especially Alexandria-has given birth to a food scene comparable to New York, the District of Columbia, Philadelphia and other East Coast neighbors, thanks to Ada’s partners in the Alexandria restaurant. The parent company, the magic behind other hot spots, The Majestic and Vola's Dockside Grill. 

Matthews' talent began at The Greenbrier Hotel & Resort in White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia, where he worked as a chef at Woodmore Country Club, Bourbon Steak, Four Seasons Hotel Washington, D.C., and True Food Kitchen, and then at Ada’s. For ESSENCE, Randall talked about the challenge of becoming a black chef in a competitive culinary environment, his inspiration behind Ada's culinary creation, and suggestions for other emerging black chefs.

Can you tell us something about you first, who you are and how you started cooking?

Growing up, I have always been interested in cooking-I will spend time with my mother and grandmother in the kitchen to help them. In college, I played football, but I don't think it suits me. Then I started working in restaurants, interned with various tutors, and studied at the CIA (American Culinary Institute).

What challenges does the catering industry face—especially black chefs?

Consistency-in the sense required by the role. Black chefs are different. You know you have to work harder. As a minority, you are always "selected last", so the challenge is to double or triple the work just to make yourself stand out.

What do you think allowed you to survive the challenge of defeating many other black chefs?

I figure out what my "why" is. For example, "Why are you here?" Or what is the ultimate goal? My "why" helps me persevere-my future, my family, my goals. I know this sounds cliche, but my personal goal is to open my own restaurant. But I hope mine is someone who gives back to the community. The profits are used to fund projects such as schools or community centers. I want to instruct young people to cook and work in the hotel industry. Let them see that they have choices for the future. Loading player...

What is the value of a good dining experience?

When you first walk into the restaurant, a good dining experience begins. It starts from the first time you walk in-from greetings to service. It should be clean, organized, warm and comfortable. Then, the food needs to be memorable, with strong flavors and ingredients. It (service and food) must exceed a certain level to truly make it an unforgettable experience.

Black people are often excluded from food history. Do you think there is a change now?

Not sure if I call it a shift, but I see more cultural understanding. It is more profound now than it was 5 years ago, but there is still a long way to go. For example, in places where you only saw French in the past, people now include African and Haitian cuisine in their conversations. There is no complete understanding yet.

What inspired Ada's menu?

The menu is inspired by my growing up experience and experience. Large family meals like pasta and lasagna have been influenced by my travels. My experience of traveling around the world helped me improve my skills in making and plating dishes.

What is your favorite or iconic ingredient?

What advice do you have for black chefs who are just starting to engage in high-end catering?

Persevere to the end. Food has changed, expectations have changed, and management style has changed. I would say stick and stick to it. For me, finding a mentor makes all the difference.

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